MegueyB
@megueyb.bsky.social
Mother of the Apocalypse, founded #PbtA. Museum curator. Material culture, ttrpgs, leftist politics, kindness & appropriate levels of vengeful fury. I'm the only one of me. She/her,☪️,🌈, breast cancer survivor. Baker house: https://www.patreon.com/lumpley
This morning’s #mending: a vintage Italian sack coat belonging to my son, in need of new lining in the sleeves. What are you working on fixing today?
November 16, 2025 at 2:59 PM
This morning’s #mending: a vintage Italian sack coat belonging to my son, in need of new lining in the sleeves. What are you working on fixing today?
The missing underskirt & waistband meant the silk had more strain on it, which somewhat accounts for the increased wear on the back.
November 16, 2025 at 3:10 AM
The missing underskirt & waistband meant the silk had more strain on it, which somewhat accounts for the increased wear on the back.
The hemline as it is is all wrong, because it was tucked up to have less/no train. Imagine if the three tucks at the back half were released; the skirt would fall beautifully and the hem would be level instead of curving up at the back.
November 16, 2025 at 3:06 AM
The hemline as it is is all wrong, because it was tucked up to have less/no train. Imagine if the three tucks at the back half were released; the skirt would fall beautifully and the hem would be level instead of curving up at the back.
The lace flounce is in good shape, only a few small snags or holes in the net, and the double-sided ruffle around the hem is a nice reference to the cummerbund and slightly surplice bodice. (That’s what a bodice where one side crosses over the other is called.)
November 16, 2025 at 3:01 AM
The lace flounce is in good shape, only a few small snags or holes in the net, and the double-sided ruffle around the hem is a nice reference to the cummerbund and slightly surplice bodice. (That’s what a bodice where one side crosses over the other is called.)
This is the center back, and the crudeness of the stitching on this tuck is shouting “costume!!” to me rather than looking like it was carefully made over for a later fashion.
November 16, 2025 at 2:54 AM
This is the center back, and the crudeness of the stitching on this tuck is shouting “costume!!” to me rather than looking like it was carefully made over for a later fashion.
Oh, indeed! The front is a full width of cloth, then there’s a full width of cloth at each side that tapers to the waist, then more cloth pieced in at the center back. You can see the selvage edges used as a way to have a fast finished edge with no extra weight.
November 16, 2025 at 2:51 AM
Oh, indeed! The front is a full width of cloth, then there’s a full width of cloth at each side that tapers to the waist, then more cloth pieced in at the center back. You can see the selvage edges used as a way to have a fast finished edge with no extra weight.
Before we get too excited about the tuck being for growing in height, let’s check the back; there are THREE sewn tucks at the back, taking up roughly 9” of length!! So the wearer who needed the tucks & snaps & pins lacked the proper undergarments (likely a small proto-bustle) to support the skirt.
November 16, 2025 at 2:46 AM
Before we get too excited about the tuck being for growing in height, let’s check the back; there are THREE sewn tucks at the back, taking up roughly 9” of length!! So the wearer who needed the tucks & snaps & pins lacked the proper undergarments (likely a small proto-bustle) to support the skirt.
See that side front seam? Perfectly straight on the grain, hip to hem. And a big tuck, just at the top of the ruffle.
November 16, 2025 at 2:37 AM
See that side front seam? Perfectly straight on the grain, hip to hem. And a big tuck, just at the top of the ruffle.
Found the matching snaps! This confirms a later use, where the skirt was snapped /over/ the tiny flaired pointed peplum. I’m guessing the wearer didn’t have the proper undergarments so the skirt was gathered oddly to lift it up in back.
November 16, 2025 at 2:29 AM
Found the matching snaps! This confirms a later use, where the skirt was snapped /over/ the tiny flaired pointed peplum. I’m guessing the wearer didn’t have the proper undergarments so the skirt was gathered oddly to lift it up in back.
The safety pins are modern, undate-able, free of rust. The front of the skirt shows where the facing fabric was folded down over the lining at the waist to level the hem - I love this technique so much, & it vanished in ready-to-wear.
November 16, 2025 at 2:21 AM
The safety pins are modern, undate-able, free of rust. The front of the skirt shows where the facing fabric was folded down over the lining at the waist to level the hem - I love this technique so much, & it vanished in ready-to-wear.
The skirt has some issues. The lining is entirely missing, along with the waistband, that would’ve been a covered piece not unlike the cummerbund that attached to the lining more directly. The center back has a generous 10” opening with a placket, & a brass hook at the top, now safety-pinned.
November 16, 2025 at 2:15 AM
The skirt has some issues. The lining is entirely missing, along with the waistband, that would’ve been a covered piece not unlike the cummerbund that attached to the lining more directly. The center back has a generous 10” opening with a placket, & a brass hook at the top, now safety-pinned.
There’s a loose bit of lace that could 100% be a collar. Look at how the fullness of the outer front bodice is controlled at the shoulder seam, and the back is perfectly smooth.
November 16, 2025 at 2:03 AM
There’s a loose bit of lace that could 100% be a collar. Look at how the fullness of the outer front bodice is controlled at the shoulder seam, and the back is perfectly smooth.
The back has 4 snap halves that are absolutely not contemporary to the garment construction. Added for a decorative element after, or worn as a costume a generation or two later?
November 16, 2025 at 1:44 AM
The back has 4 snap halves that are absolutely not contemporary to the garment construction. Added for a decorative element after, or worn as a costume a generation or two later?
Lace cuffs are whip-stitched to the inner cuff of the sleeve lining.
November 16, 2025 at 1:38 AM
Lace cuffs are whip-stitched to the inner cuff of the sleeve lining.
Sweat stains under both arms has damaged the facing material. The sleeves have a lot of poof at the top, & are full and soft to the cuff, but the lining is a bit more close-fitting. The arm seam is along the inner arm, & secures the silk to the lining.
November 16, 2025 at 1:36 AM
Sweat stains under both arms has damaged the facing material. The sleeves have a lot of poof at the top, & are full and soft to the cuff, but the lining is a bit more close-fitting. The arm seam is along the inner arm, & secures the silk to the lining.
The hem comes to a point in center front, with the point in center back having a bit more flair to accommodate the fullness at the back.
November 16, 2025 at 1:27 AM
The hem comes to a point in center front, with the point in center back having a bit more flair to accommodate the fullness at the back.
But wait, there’s more! An attached cummberbund belt, with an intact bit of yellow floss that I definitely think held a bit of boning once upon a time. Also, note the economy of piecing, where small scraps of silk are used to complete the necessary piece.
November 16, 2025 at 1:22 AM
But wait, there’s more! An attached cummberbund belt, with an intact bit of yellow floss that I definitely think held a bit of boning once upon a time. Also, note the economy of piecing, where small scraps of silk are used to complete the necessary piece.
Soft pleats down the outer front are caught at the center high waist behind another hook & eye. Then the right front crosses over the pointed center bottom and fastens on the left. This would make for Very stylish diagonal lines on the top!
November 16, 2025 at 1:17 AM
Soft pleats down the outer front are caught at the center high waist behind another hook & eye. Then the right front crosses over the pointed center bottom and fastens on the left. This would make for Very stylish diagonal lines on the top!
The brass hook & eye fasteners trace up the bowed front, which would have had a bit of a “pigeon” bust, with darts at the waist to make it more dramatic.
November 16, 2025 at 1:12 AM
The brass hook & eye fasteners trace up the bowed front, which would have had a bit of a “pigeon” bust, with darts at the waist to make it more dramatic.
No boning or channels for boning, but the traces of bright yellow silk embroidery floss may have held boning in place on top of the finished seams. There are brown cotton twill tape loops at the back of each arm, probably for securing to a hanger.
November 16, 2025 at 1:05 AM
No boning or channels for boning, but the traces of bright yellow silk embroidery floss may have held boning in place on top of the finished seams. There are brown cotton twill tape loops at the back of each arm, probably for securing to a hanger.
Ok, let’s get into the bodice. It’s fully lined with a silk/cotton blend that has a stripe & sprig woven into it, & a brown roller print of an oval. The construction seams are machine sewn & all the finishing is by hand.
November 16, 2025 at 12:58 AM
Ok, let’s get into the bodice. It’s fully lined with a silk/cotton blend that has a stripe & sprig woven into it, & a brown roller print of an oval. The construction seams are machine sewn & all the finishing is by hand.
I should also maybe put some #FashionHistory and #DressHistory tags on this, because the first thing out of the bag is a silk two-piece dress c 1890!!
November 16, 2025 at 12:50 AM
I should also maybe put some #FashionHistory and #DressHistory tags on this, because the first thing out of the bag is a silk two-piece dress c 1890!!
Ok, I’m going to do a little #LHSRescue thread as a reward to myself for the day. That’s Local History Site Rescue, for those of you new to the hashtag. Sometimes this is for a work thing, sometimes it’s just the stuff that finds its way to me, like this bag of “this looks old, give it to Meg.”
November 16, 2025 at 12:33 AM
Ok, I’m going to do a little #LHSRescue thread as a reward to myself for the day. That’s Local History Site Rescue, for those of you new to the hashtag. Sometimes this is for a work thing, sometimes it’s just the stuff that finds its way to me, like this bag of “this looks old, give it to Meg.”
Don’t give me that innocent look, you giant goofball beastie. You know what you did.
November 13, 2025 at 6:28 PM
Don’t give me that innocent look, you giant goofball beastie. You know what you did.
This is the most 2025 thing I’ve seen yet. Let’s change the rules of the game so that criminals and corruption are good, actually. Elizabeth Magie I was right: the 1%will screw you over any way they can, & break the rules to do it.
November 10, 2025 at 1:58 PM
This is the most 2025 thing I’ve seen yet. Let’s change the rules of the game so that criminals and corruption are good, actually. Elizabeth Magie I was right: the 1%will screw you over any way they can, & break the rules to do it.