Cyril Sam
cyrilsam.bsky.social
Cyril Sam
@cyrilsam.bsky.social
Journalist obsessed with media theory and communication technologies
...Ajmal on the fennel and pepper and S Md. Ayub Md Yaqub on the oakmoss and Onycha Shells.

What all of them share is a backbone of warm Indian spices.

If you do get a chance to test Shamama, do it. It's best used in the winters where it warms your senses against the cold outdoors.
November 16, 2023 at 7:18 PM
Nemat was followed by Perfumery, Khatri, Ajmal and finally the pioneers, S Md. Ayub Md. Yaqub. Perfumery was heavy on saffron, Khatri on Onycha Shells (also known as Nakh and yes, we distill sea shells for perfumery in India),...
November 16, 2023 at 7:16 PM
...began my journey of making sense of Shamama. There's little I could find online on perfume fora such as fragrantica, basenotes, etc.. Much of the knowledge of Indian perfumery is oral and undocumented. My only way around was to test Shamamas from different houses.
November 16, 2023 at 7:05 PM
Both the perfumes are at the opposite ends of the olfactory experience. I preferred the musky profile of Nemat's over the sweet-spicy Shamama from Gulab Singh Johrimal. But it got me curious. What is Shamama, if everyone has a different interpretation? And thus...
November 16, 2023 at 7:03 PM
Reposted by Cyril Sam
Conclusion 2: The individual must curate a pool of experts, and hope such experts keep posting in the face of harassment, mockery, and death threats, in addition to their actual work. That's not sustainable. And systems where actual facts are paywalled, but disinformation is free, make things worse.
November 16, 2023 at 6:50 PM
My first brush with Shamama was three years ago from the house of Gulab Singh Johrimal. A sweet Shamama that reminded me of Indian sweets, specially those covered in edible silver. I wasn't sure what to make of it. I followed up by picking up Nemat Enterprises' Shamama, which was heavy on ambrette.
November 16, 2023 at 6:35 PM
You see, because it is a natural perfume made of spices, it is used in the flavouring, the food and both the continental and oriental perfume industry. Think of smoking and chewing tobacco, paan, private blends of the French perfume houses or the expensive oud mukhallats and bakhoors.
November 16, 2023 at 6:28 PM
The blend was pioneered by the house of S. Md. Ayub Md. Yaqub some 200-years ago. Today, depending on the house, the house and the use, it can be sweet-spicy, musky-spicy, green-spicy or just plain spicy, each catering to a different audience and industry.
November 16, 2023 at 6:23 PM
What each blend shares in common is a dark backbone of warm Indian spices such as cardamom, mace, nutmeg, star anise, etc..
November 16, 2023 at 6:18 PM
Because every perfumer has their own house blend of Shamama, often multiple interpretations depending on the quality of the blend and the number of ingredients used, it takes a while to make sense of the perfume.
November 16, 2023 at 5:52 PM