Now keep in mind, this is a very delicate material and these aren't your average copper traces, be very careful. You'll only have a few attempts to get it right before there isn't enough material to work with.

But if everything goes well, you'll be left with a display that looks as good as new :)

Once your done and every segment looks good, I'd reccomend putting some kapton tape or similar over top to help protect the slightly exposed traces and better keep everything in place.

The carbon traces on these seem to have a habit of delaminating, causing segments to dissapear. Ive found that heating a soldering iron to ~450°F and gently running it over each connection point, just slightly melting the ribbon, reconnects the traces well.

Have you checked C1399? When the tantalum caps fail they tend to go short

Good find, but in my experience its unlikely the resistor is the problem. A burnt resistor tends to be a symptom, not the cause, so there's likely excess current flow along its path

It also had a very satisfying opening mechanism

But even with that broken idler it has a wow and flutter of 0.2%, which is not bad in my books, but its a ways away from the rated 0.02% its supposed to perform at.

Still a few things left to do as well as calibration, the forward idler wheel was actually the wrong size and got slightly torn during install so I'm gonna have to take it apart again to deal with that when I get the replacement but I need to anyways to replace the cassette lamp, forgot about it.

Did also have a number of other issues though outside of just the mechanism, broken joints on the power supply section of its audio board lead to a bunch of problems, and oxidized switch contacts initially prevented the capstan motor from running

I would also recommend checking out TekScopes & TekScopes2 on groups.io, a lot of useful info there

Im sure you already know but the most common source of issues with these is the tantalum caps, mines current issue is that something seems to be up in the z-axis, blanking isn't working right

Have also been focused on some other projects like this, have been designing my own case for a bare industrial CRT :)

Thanks for the intetest, did make some progress past here, got the screen to actually start displaying the signals correctly, but its been on hold for a while. In the mean time I've completed a bunch of other stuff, like fixing a missle command arcade machine, reel to reel player, & cassette desk