Andy King 📺
@crtdatabase.com
Software Engineer, creator of CRTDatabase.com.
Discord Handle: andy.king
Discord Server: https://discord.com/invite/qMtWasTN
Twitter: https://twitter.com/dorksince93
Website: https://crtdatabase.com
Support Me: https://patreon.com/andyking
Discord Handle: andy.king
Discord Server: https://discord.com/invite/qMtWasTN
Twitter: https://twitter.com/dorksince93
Website: https://crtdatabase.com
Support Me: https://patreon.com/andyking
The seller was forced to stop because of the stupid tariffs. Hopefully one day it will return.
August 12, 2025 at 1:28 AM
The seller was forced to stop because of the stupid tariffs. Hopefully one day it will return.
Reposted by Andy King 📺
Update: its fixed! Turns out there is a 5v reg on the TV board for the SNES to use, but that wasnt even the problem. There is a PNP transistor that pulls the 5v low for the reset button and that transistor was dead. So 5v was being pulled low 100% of the time. I'll document more about it on my site
March 15, 2025 at 6:12 AM
Update: its fixed! Turns out there is a 5v reg on the TV board for the SNES to use, but that wasnt even the problem. There is a PNP transistor that pulls the 5v low for the reset button and that transistor was dead. So 5v was being pulled low 100% of the time. I'll document more about it on my site
Update: its fixed! Turns out there is a 5v reg on the TV board for the SNES to use, but that wasnt even the problem. There is a PNP transistor that pulls the 5v low for the reset button and that transistor was dead. So 5v was being pulled low 100% of the time. I'll document more about it on my site
March 15, 2025 at 6:12 AM
Update: its fixed! Turns out there is a 5v reg on the TV board for the SNES to use, but that wasnt even the problem. There is a PNP transistor that pulls the 5v low for the reset button and that transistor was dead. So 5v was being pulled low 100% of the time. I'll document more about it on my site
Yeah I just confirmed that on my end. Nothing is labeled but pin 1 of the EC connector is tied to VCC all over the SNES. The TV board is the 5v supply so time to hunt there.
March 12, 2025 at 1:01 AM
Yeah I just confirmed that on my end. Nothing is labeled but pin 1 of the EC connector is tied to VCC all over the SNES. The TV board is the 5v supply so time to hunt there.
Thank you! TV was previously working and brought in for a recap. TV board has been recapped already, plus the SNES board and the transformer board. Only thing I haven't recapped is the encoder board you mentioned.
March 11, 2025 at 11:12 PM
Thank you! TV was previously working and brought in for a recap. TV board has been recapped already, plus the SNES board and the transformer board. Only thing I haven't recapped is the encoder board you mentioned.
Yeah that's already known, it's affecting the multi out but nothing else so far. SNES was working before the PSU problem killed it
March 11, 2025 at 11:10 PM
Yeah that's already known, it's affecting the multi out but nothing else so far. SNES was working before the PSU problem killed it
I've gone and labeled all the chips I can read right now. Nothing resembling a regulator so that leaves me to assume the 12v to 5v regulation is done discreetly somewhere in this 2nd pic
March 11, 2025 at 9:30 PM
I've gone and labeled all the chips I can read right now. Nothing resembling a regulator so that leaves me to assume the 12v to 5v regulation is done discreetly somewhere in this 2nd pic
Yes, those two transistors are the only source of warmth on the board after 3 min of being powered
March 11, 2025 at 8:59 PM
Yes, those two transistors are the only source of warmth on the board after 3 min of being powered
Hmm would an everdrive work for that or do I need to buy a special cart?
March 11, 2025 at 8:58 PM
Hmm would an everdrive work for that or do I need to buy a special cart?
CPU has already been swapped in the last so unless it killed the new one it's probably (hopefully) fine.
March 11, 2025 at 8:57 PM
CPU has already been swapped in the last so unless it killed the new one it's probably (hopefully) fine.
No video output whatsoever.
March 11, 2025 at 8:57 PM
No video output whatsoever.
It could, but 95F is not exactly "dumping current to ground" hot like I would expect. Ideally I'd like to find where the 5v source is before pulling random transistors.
March 11, 2025 at 8:56 PM
It could, but 95F is not exactly "dumping current to ground" hot like I would expect. Ideally I'd like to find where the 5v source is before pulling random transistors.
The 7812 regulator on the TV board feeds some of the input wires for the SNES and it's switched when the SNES power is turned on. So the 5v reg must be on the SNES board... Must be SMD? Guess I should follow the 12v(on) pin I found and see if it leads to anything related to 5v
March 11, 2025 at 8:55 PM
The 7812 regulator on the TV board feeds some of the input wires for the SNES and it's switched when the SNES power is turned on. So the 5v reg must be on the SNES board... Must be SMD? Guess I should follow the 12v(on) pin I found and see if it leads to anything related to 5v
Switching the SNES power switch on/off changes where the 12v supply is - which seems to be a logic controlled operation not a simple "switch changed the pins that 12v feed" situation. Power switch doesn't ever have 12v. So maybe something is alive, I don't know. Help! Lol
March 11, 2025 at 6:09 PM
Switching the SNES power switch on/off changes where the 12v supply is - which seems to be a logic controlled operation not a simple "switch changed the pins that 12v feed" situation. Power switch doesn't ever have 12v. So maybe something is alive, I don't know. Help! Lol
The SNES is from a Sharp SF1 where the 12v power supply for the SNES blew up. I've repaired the PSU and restored 12v power to the SNES but it does not seem to be running. Only thermal activity I see is a couple warm transistors. The Nintendo chips are not warm at all.
March 11, 2025 at 6:09 PM
The SNES is from a Sharp SF1 where the 12v power supply for the SNES blew up. I've repaired the PSU and restored 12v power to the SNES but it does not seem to be running. Only thermal activity I see is a couple warm transistors. The Nintendo chips are not warm at all.
The SNES I am working on is not your average recognizable variation of the SNES hardware, does not follow the published schematics, and runs off 12v instead of 10v. I am hoping someone could look at the board and recognize what each area does what.
March 11, 2025 at 6:09 PM
The SNES I am working on is not your average recognizable variation of the SNES hardware, does not follow the published schematics, and runs off 12v instead of 10v. I am hoping someone could look at the board and recognize what each area does what.
Often the holes on these will clog with solder and popular tools like the Hakko aren't able to clear them easily. My method to unclog the holes is to lay wick over the hole and push my conical iron tip into the hole (with the wick sandwiched between) until it flows out. Always works.
February 25, 2025 at 5:51 AM
Often the holes on these will clog with solder and popular tools like the Hakko aren't able to clear them easily. My method to unclog the holes is to lay wick over the hole and push my conical iron tip into the hole (with the wick sandwiched between) until it flows out. Always works.
The best way to avoid damaging the board holes while recapping is to flow the capacitor's pads with fresh *leaded* solder before you work. The factory solder is unleaded and doesn't transfer heat well, which makes the problems worse.
February 25, 2025 at 5:51 AM
The best way to avoid damaging the board holes while recapping is to flow the capacitor's pads with fresh *leaded* solder before you work. The factory solder is unleaded and doesn't transfer heat well, which makes the problems worse.
... schematic to see if the affected pad still has continuity in all directions. If it doesn't, you will need to lift the cap off the board far enough to solder it on the top surface (as well as the bottom like you usually would). These PVMs are two layer boards so too and bottom covers both cases.
February 25, 2025 at 5:51 AM
... schematic to see if the affected pad still has continuity in all directions. If it doesn't, you will need to lift the cap off the board far enough to solder it on the top surface (as well as the bottom like you usually would). These PVMs are two layer boards so too and bottom covers both cases.
One more tip. You need to be careful when recapping these 90s Sony PVM boards. The plated through holes are crap quality and they will come out along with the capacitor legs if you overheat them while pulling. If you rip one out you need to cross referencen the (continued...)
February 25, 2025 at 5:51 AM
One more tip. You need to be careful when recapping these 90s Sony PVM boards. The plated through holes are crap quality and they will come out along with the capacitor legs if you overheat them while pulling. If you rip one out you need to cross referencen the (continued...)