"Hold still!.... There we go..."

Cyborg husband is @themrdolphin.bsky.social

📷: @zagposting.bsky.social

"Oh... okay. Time to lock in then..."#Neotropolis2025

Last post's rifle with magnet in action!

Been working on something cool.

That is a nerf rifle and a very strong magnet :3

HUH. WELL. Today I learned that Worbla can eventually go bad after 10+ years, even after heating!

Huge same. We need more/any photos! 😭

I'm celebrating getting another addition to my Jirachi collection (I posted it on my other bsky), so here's my favs of my Jirachi cosplays!

This is the only 3D model file I've put out onto the internet!

It is a 1:1 scale (to a 3foot tall Cait Sith) crown. I've only printed it via resin printing, so if anyone takes a stab at it with other printer, please let me know!!

cults3d.com/en/3d-model/...

Reeve: @/ceruleandraco (Twitter/X)

I'm pretty sure I covered everything, if I didn't I'll add to this thread.
We still haven't gottrn all the picture back yet from the trip, but at least here you can see the staff to scale with me.

Uh, painting. I sure did that. I really never painted a wood finish before, but this was my method:

-rattle can black primer
-rattle can of color
-different layers of acrylic paints
-????
-profit

I regret not taking photos of this, but some parts required to be boned together. For all my resin printing, not just this ABS-like, I've used this J-B Weld.
It might be overkill, but it sands and acts the same as the resin so I don't plan on changingy methods a.co/d/gYGJoRP

The 3D model comes with dowels that you can print, but in order to save on time and money, I opted to use wooden dowels (I did use them to help with painting, so I did get two uses out of them ✌🏻)

For the purple fabric, I had debated about how I wanted to finish it since I didn't want it just painted. I settled on cutting bias strips of fabric and doing my best to wrap it.
As you can tell, the 3D model was not hyper accurate to the source, but I had an idea in mind to get around those issues.

I didn't take a lot of photos of the sanding and painting. Please enjoy my cat, Zelda watching over the parts.

For those of you curious about what I used to fix those spots, I used this two part epoxy sculpt clay. It's cheaper than the usual brand I use to use, but works well (albeit way more sticky, I recommend using gloves)
You also do not need a lot to fill in gaps and holes.
a.co/d/am4WLVE

I ran into some issues with a few of the pieces with the ABS-like sticking to the printing film after curing. I'm using a brand of FEP that isn't from Uniformation, but it only seems to have this issue with this type of resin. (future solution is to get a stiffer film that won't stretch)

I'm just using a basic slicer program (it's literally called "Slicer") since it works well with the resin printer I have (Uniformation GK Two). I also wanted to try Uniformation's Abs-like resin this time.

This entire model is hollow. For this build I did 2mm thick walls.

I chose this model because all the pieces would fit on the printing plate, I could work on each section separately for sanding and painting, and I could take it apart for travel.

I'm not very well versed in the creation of 3D models on a computer (yet) and this model is great.

Okay! Time to post some progress photos!

I was tasked with having Fern finished before a planned photoshoot. I'm going to be focusing more on the printing side of this and how I was able to accomplish this build.

3D model by: UncleRay3DPrint