toeslayer2000.bsky.social
@toeslayer2000.bsky.social
Retired academic and born again blogger. Twitter refugee. Topic for 2026 is shoe design through the ages. Text is mine otherwise photographs are copyrighted and used here as fair use.
After Civil War broke out demand for shoes far outstripped supply from the hand sewn shoe industry. Sub-standard footwear quickly wore out forcing Confederate Army to march barefoot in winter campaigns. Absence of new issue meant dead men’s shoes were a premium.
February 11, 2026 at 2:59 AM
After Civil War broke out demand for shoes far outstripped supply from the hand sewn shoe industry. Sub-standard footwear quickly wore out forcing Confederate Army to march barefoot in winter campaigns. Absence of new issue meant dead men’s shoes were a premium.
The Union Army transitioned to left & right fittings circa 1861. Soldiers were issued with “Jefferson Bootee” Model 1851 & left to ‘break them in’. As war progressed, Union Army standardized equipment, leading to more consistent, & eventually, more comfortable, foot-specific footwear.
February 10, 2026 at 10:32 PM
The Union Army transitioned to left & right fittings circa 1861. Soldiers were issued with “Jefferson Bootee” Model 1851 & left to ‘break them in’. As war progressed, Union Army standardized equipment, leading to more consistent, & eventually, more comfortable, foot-specific footwear.
19thc Congress gaiters were considered the most comfortable shoes ever designed. Sea captains bulk stored them in the Chandlery so Shanghaied crews (often barefoot) were forced to buy a pair for the voyage. Coveted throughout the western world Congress boots were used as bribes to customs men.
February 10, 2026 at 2:47 AM
19thc Congress gaiters were considered the most comfortable shoes ever designed. Sea captains bulk stored them in the Chandlery so Shanghaied crews (often barefoot) were forced to buy a pair for the voyage. Coveted throughout the western world Congress boots were used as bribes to customs men.
Sparkes-Hall patented the first Elastic Ankle Boots for indoor & outdoor wear. By eliminating laces & button-hooks he designed boots to be both practical & comfortable. In the US they were dubbed Congress gaiters after they became extremely popular among members of the U.S. Congress.
February 9, 2026 at 10:01 PM
Sparkes-Hall patented the first Elastic Ankle Boots for indoor & outdoor wear. By eliminating laces & button-hooks he designed boots to be both practical & comfortable. In the US they were dubbed Congress gaiters after they became extremely popular among members of the U.S. Congress.
Sparkes-Hall took Oxford dress shoe extended to ankle & created ankle bootee with closed-channel lacestay & horizontal seam. Sleek silhouette came as hemlines rose & respectable ladies went walking outside. Other modifications were side-lacing & button fastening.
February 9, 2026 at 8:00 AM
Sparkes-Hall took Oxford dress shoe extended to ankle & created ankle bootee with closed-channel lacestay & horizontal seam. Sleek silhouette came as hemlines rose & respectable ladies went walking outside. Other modifications were side-lacing & button fastening.
Queen Victoria (1819-1901) & her consort Prince Albert (1819- 1861) acquired Balmoral Castle in 1852. Prince Albert commissioned Queens bootmaker Joseph Sparkes-Hall (1811–1891) to craft boots for riding side saddle & hill walking. For first time It was fashionable for ladies to go walking outdoors.
February 8, 2026 at 11:00 PM
Queen Victoria (1819-1901) & her consort Prince Albert (1819- 1861) acquired Balmoral Castle in 1852. Prince Albert commissioned Queens bootmaker Joseph Sparkes-Hall (1811–1891) to craft boots for riding side saddle & hill walking. For first time It was fashionable for ladies to go walking outdoors.
Isaac Merritt Singer (1811 – 1875) created first practical sewing machine in 1850 ending "cottage industry" of hand-sewing. Jan Ernst Matzeliger (1852–1889) invented “lasting machine,” in 1883. Shoes could now be mass-produced marking the beginning of US shoe fashion industry.
February 7, 2026 at 11:16 PM
Isaac Merritt Singer (1811 – 1875) created first practical sewing machine in 1850 ending "cottage industry" of hand-sewing. Jan Ernst Matzeliger (1852–1889) invented “lasting machine,” in 1883. Shoes could now be mass-produced marking the beginning of US shoe fashion industry.
Alfred Guillaume Gabriel’s innovation (i.e. D’Orsay pump) was foot flattering & considered sensual to look at. It evolved into one of the most seductive shoe styles of the era. Ladies’ Pumps had a strap across the instep & were worn with heeled (kitten or a higher heel). The precursor of Mary Janes
February 7, 2026 at 3:39 AM
Alfred Guillaume Gabriel’s innovation (i.e. D’Orsay pump) was foot flattering & considered sensual to look at. It evolved into one of the most seductive shoe styles of the era. Ladies’ Pumps had a strap across the instep & were worn with heeled (kitten or a higher heel). The precursor of Mary Janes
The low front shell of fashionable pumps allowed daring toe cleavage. Count d'Orsay (1801–1852) wore his pumps with low cut sides to expose curvature of the long arch whilst also highlighting the sinuous movement that lay beneath (Rossi 1976)
February 6, 2026 at 11:20 PM
The low front shell of fashionable pumps allowed daring toe cleavage. Count d'Orsay (1801–1852) wore his pumps with low cut sides to expose curvature of the long arch whilst also highlighting the sinuous movement that lay beneath (Rossi 1976)
Source: Private Eye Magazine
February 6, 2026 at 11:02 PM
Source: Private Eye Magazine
By 1836, court shoes were more robust after shoemakers attached elastic goring to the topline making a secure slip-on pump. Made from fine leathers lined with quilted silk the low shells were further embellished with buttons or bows. Gentlemen wore their formal evening slippers to the opera.
February 6, 2026 at 6:19 AM
By 1836, court shoes were more robust after shoemakers attached elastic goring to the topline making a secure slip-on pump. Made from fine leathers lined with quilted silk the low shells were further embellished with buttons or bows. Gentlemen wore their formal evening slippers to the opera.
Right and left fittings were made for the first time in 1822 but met with no interest. People then preferred symmetry, hence shoes were straight lasted with no right & left fitting. Custom-made shoes were more comfortable then “ready-made” shoes but beyond most people's purse .
February 5, 2026 at 10:22 PM
Right and left fittings were made for the first time in 1822 but met with no interest. People then preferred symmetry, hence shoes were straight lasted with no right & left fitting. Custom-made shoes were more comfortable then “ready-made” shoes but beyond most people's purse .
Gaudy decoration was replaced by perfect tailoring, clean linen, and subtle elegance. Serious men garnered respect by dressing in suits & wear handmade shoes. Beau Brummell (1778–1840) championed the new "dandy look" when upper-class gentlemen wore dress boots by day and opera pumps by night.
February 5, 2026 at 8:31 AM
Gaudy decoration was replaced by perfect tailoring, clean linen, and subtle elegance. Serious men garnered respect by dressing in suits & wear handmade shoes. Beau Brummell (1778–1840) championed the new "dandy look" when upper-class gentlemen wore dress boots by day and opera pumps by night.
Turning point in male costume came late 18th/early 19th c when Western wealthy men traded "peacock" feathers for the sobriety. The Great Male Renunciation saw high heels, make up, & wigs go, relegated to "feminine" sphere. In US the movement became associated with Republicanism.
February 4, 2026 at 10:17 PM
Turning point in male costume came late 18th/early 19th c when Western wealthy men traded "peacock" feathers for the sobriety. The Great Male Renunciation saw high heels, make up, & wigs go, relegated to "feminine" sphere. In US the movement became associated with Republicanism.