Thom Hetherington
@thomhetherington.bsky.social
Consultant • Writer • Speaker
Restaurants • Hospitality • Culture
Northerner • Husband • Dad
Founder: Landing Light
Chair: Manchester Art Fair
Critic: Manchester's Finest
Trustee: Factory International and the Tim Bacon Foundation.
Restaurants • Hospitality • Culture
Northerner • Husband • Dad
Founder: Landing Light
Chair: Manchester Art Fair
Critic: Manchester's Finest
Trustee: Factory International and the Tim Bacon Foundation.
BOOK YOUR TICKETS TODAY!
Because it's a mere four weeks until Manchester Art Fair opens its doors to the public. Now one of the UK's largest and most prestigious art fairs, Manchester Art Fair brings together over ten thousand Northern art lovers, whether collectors, curators or the merely curious.
Because it's a mere four weeks until Manchester Art Fair opens its doors to the public. Now one of the UK's largest and most prestigious art fairs, Manchester Art Fair brings together over ten thousand Northern art lovers, whether collectors, curators or the merely curious.
October 25, 2025 at 8:55 AM
BOOK YOUR TICKETS TODAY!
Because it's a mere four weeks until Manchester Art Fair opens its doors to the public. Now one of the UK's largest and most prestigious art fairs, Manchester Art Fair brings together over ten thousand Northern art lovers, whether collectors, curators or the merely curious.
Because it's a mere four weeks until Manchester Art Fair opens its doors to the public. Now one of the UK's largest and most prestigious art fairs, Manchester Art Fair brings together over ten thousand Northern art lovers, whether collectors, curators or the merely curious.
I've eaten in Simon's restaurants, from the Lakes to London and Manchester to Malta, and there is a unifying brilliance to them all.
But for me, L'enclume, a humble stack of lime-washed lakeland stone, set in soft gardens hard against a beck, is still the star which holds the others in its orbit.
But for me, L'enclume, a humble stack of lime-washed lakeland stone, set in soft gardens hard against a beck, is still the star which holds the others in its orbit.
August 31, 2025 at 9:44 AM
I've eaten in Simon's restaurants, from the Lakes to London and Manchester to Malta, and there is a unifying brilliance to them all.
But for me, L'enclume, a humble stack of lime-washed lakeland stone, set in soft gardens hard against a beck, is still the star which holds the others in its orbit.
But for me, L'enclume, a humble stack of lime-washed lakeland stone, set in soft gardens hard against a beck, is still the star which holds the others in its orbit.
Tender shells of young Red Baron onion, packed as tightly as hamster cheeks with a nugget of Doddington cheese; West Coast monkfish with the sweet tartness of blackcurrant leaf; and a cheeseboard where each cheese was introduced with more personal detail than I could muster about my own children.
August 31, 2025 at 9:44 AM
Tender shells of young Red Baron onion, packed as tightly as hamster cheeks with a nugget of Doddington cheese; West Coast monkfish with the sweet tartness of blackcurrant leaf; and a cheeseboard where each cheese was introduced with more personal detail than I could muster about my own children.
For me, the plant elements really sang - Cherry Belle radishes; aquadolce broad beans; sunshine beans and Zaino courgettes. But each had fauna to their flora, balancing textures and flavours - chalk stream trout; smoked pike perch roe; cuttlefish and aged pork broth; and a glorious chicken butter.
August 31, 2025 at 9:44 AM
For me, the plant elements really sang - Cherry Belle radishes; aquadolce broad beans; sunshine beans and Zaino courgettes. But each had fauna to their flora, balancing textures and flavours - chalk stream trout; smoked pike perch roe; cuttlefish and aged pork broth; and a glorious chicken butter.
Here, Paul Burgalieres was running the kitchen whilst Tom Noller ran the floor, and Jordan Sutton the wine flight.
And the dishes themselves were delightful. Each perfectly realised ensemble of ingredients and techniques was sharp, brightly stimulating and never less than delicious.
And the dishes themselves were delightful. Each perfectly realised ensemble of ingredients and techniques was sharp, brightly stimulating and never less than delicious.
August 31, 2025 at 9:44 AM
Here, Paul Burgalieres was running the kitchen whilst Tom Noller ran the floor, and Jordan Sutton the wine flight.
And the dishes themselves were delightful. Each perfectly realised ensemble of ingredients and techniques was sharp, brightly stimulating and never less than delicious.
And the dishes themselves were delightful. Each perfectly realised ensemble of ingredients and techniques was sharp, brightly stimulating and never less than delicious.
Simon Rogan has done exactly this, and my meal back at L'enclume, by kind invitation, was the best I have had there despite Simon himself being needed elsewhere in his empire. And it was the best because he has an impeccable team who know exactly how to relentlessly hit the most exacting of levels.
August 31, 2025 at 9:44 AM
Simon Rogan has done exactly this, and my meal back at L'enclume, by kind invitation, was the best I have had there despite Simon himself being needed elsewhere in his empire. And it was the best because he has an impeccable team who know exactly how to relentlessly hit the most exacting of levels.
It takes some special chutzpah to sell up and move to Cartmel to open your own restaurant. And special talent to snag 3 Michelin stars for said restaurant, L'enclume, whilst also creating a stable of starred operations across multiple countries as well as a sprawling artisinal farm to supply them.
August 31, 2025 at 9:44 AM
It takes some special chutzpah to sell up and move to Cartmel to open your own restaurant. And special talent to snag 3 Michelin stars for said restaurant, L'enclume, whilst also creating a stable of starred operations across multiple countries as well as a sprawling artisinal farm to supply them.
It feels like you are in a safe space, cossetted and insulated from the chaos beyond it's walls, and that you might even absorb some of that reassuring sense of permanence and warm resilience by osmosis.
Pubs, I love 'em. And I love The Jolly Gardeners.
Pubs, I love 'em. And I love The Jolly Gardeners.
August 29, 2025 at 12:55 PM
It feels like you are in a safe space, cossetted and insulated from the chaos beyond it's walls, and that you might even absorb some of that reassuring sense of permanence and warm resilience by osmosis.
Pubs, I love 'em. And I love The Jolly Gardeners.
Pubs, I love 'em. And I love The Jolly Gardeners.
The more precarious, uncertain and ephemeral life feels, the more I find sanctuary retreating into historical, hospitable, human environments like The Jolly Gardeners. There is something deeply reassuring about relaxing into a space which has welcomed, fed and watered people for sometimes centuries.
August 29, 2025 at 12:55 PM
The more precarious, uncertain and ephemeral life feels, the more I find sanctuary retreating into historical, hospitable, human environments like The Jolly Gardeners. There is something deeply reassuring about relaxing into a space which has welcomed, fed and watered people for sometimes centuries.
The food was great - well thought out, well sourced, and well cooked - but what really set my heart a-flutter was the all-encompassing pub experience. Friendly service and cosy corners, and great food with proper pints, all wrapped in dark wood, glowing in the evening light through those *windows*.
August 29, 2025 at 12:55 PM
The food was great - well thought out, well sourced, and well cooked - but what really set my heart a-flutter was the all-encompassing pub experience. Friendly service and cosy corners, and great food with proper pints, all wrapped in dark wood, glowing in the evening light through those *windows*.
And those desserts - treacle tart, and jam steamed sponge with custard; and those wines - all intelligently chosen small producers, leaning towards low intervention, and topped by the dreamily-oaked Viognier from Lismore; and again, those *windows*!
August 29, 2025 at 12:55 PM
And those desserts - treacle tart, and jam steamed sponge with custard; and those wines - all intelligently chosen small producers, leaning towards low intervention, and topped by the dreamily-oaked Viognier from Lismore; and again, those *windows*!
The menu is start-to-finish winners, with safe landing spots for the more traditional diner - burgers and pies - but plenty to reward napkin-sniffing foodies - lamb neck, and bavette and poussin instead of more generic steak and chicken options.
August 29, 2025 at 12:55 PM
The menu is start-to-finish winners, with safe landing spots for the more traditional diner - burgers and pies - but plenty to reward napkin-sniffing foodies - lamb neck, and bavette and poussin instead of more generic steak and chicken options.
The pub is now owned and run by Ben and Joe, the Cestrian brothers behind Porta in Chester and its fellow outposts in Salford, Altrincham and West Didsbury. I love Porta, but God I hope they also do more pubs in future, and ideally in Manchester.
August 29, 2025 at 12:55 PM
The pub is now owned and run by Ben and Joe, the Cestrian brothers behind Porta in Chester and its fellow outposts in Salford, Altrincham and West Didsbury. I love Porta, but God I hope they also do more pubs in future, and ideally in Manchester.
The next chapter of my ongoing love affair with pubs of all shapes, sizes, and characters - the newly reopened The Jolly Gardeners in Chester. Look at that food; look at that interior; look at those *windows*!
August 29, 2025 at 12:55 PM
The next chapter of my ongoing love affair with pubs of all shapes, sizes, and characters - the newly reopened The Jolly Gardeners in Chester. Look at that food; look at that interior; look at those *windows*!
Have you always wondered where your favourite restaurant got that heritage lighting, or the local bar sourced that incredible mid century seating? It'll probably be here.
August 28, 2025 at 1:44 PM
Have you always wondered where your favourite restaurant got that heritage lighting, or the local bar sourced that incredible mid century seating? It'll probably be here.
The most incredible collection of architectural salvage, antique interior design features, and oddments and object d' art you'd struggle to even define. Endlessly fascinating; step through the doors and you'll be lost for hours.
August 28, 2025 at 1:44 PM
The most incredible collection of architectural salvage, antique interior design features, and oddments and object d' art you'd struggle to even define. Endlessly fascinating; step through the doors and you'll be lost for hours.
I first started shopping with In Situ about a quarter century ago, and I can't believe that I hadn't popped in for so long. It's grown into its iconic Castlefield site, occupying a warren of interconnected rooms across three stories.
August 28, 2025 at 1:44 PM
I first started shopping with In Situ about a quarter century ago, and I can't believe that I hadn't popped in for so long. It's grown into its iconic Castlefield site, occupying a warren of interconnected rooms across three stories.
One of my favourite shops in the city, and the trade secret of almost every local hospitality operator of note - In Situ.
August 28, 2025 at 1:44 PM
One of my favourite shops in the city, and the trade secret of almost every local hospitality operator of note - In Situ.
First visit to House of Social on First St today. Very impressive fit-out, and Victor Yu's sweet and sour chicken hit the spot. Plus dumplings, and prawn crumpets - yes, "crumpets"! - too.
August 27, 2025 at 1:42 PM
First visit to House of Social on First St today. Very impressive fit-out, and Victor Yu's sweet and sour chicken hit the spot. Plus dumplings, and prawn crumpets - yes, "crumpets"! - too.
And now I'm eating produce-led British small plates and drinking small-lot Burgundian style wines from cult producers. I love the breadth and depth of all of the above, but what a time to be alive for a born and (in)bred Glossopian food nerd.
August 23, 2025 at 4:52 PM
And now I'm eating produce-led British small plates and drinking small-lot Burgundian style wines from cult producers. I love the breadth and depth of all of the above, but what a time to be alive for a born and (in)bred Glossopian food nerd.
...red cabbage from the Curly Cornet, bottles of K at Sylvester's, currant backstone oven bottoms from the Muffin Stall, chip barms from Glossop Fish Bar, meat and potato pies from Mettrick's, and triangular white bread sandwiches at halftime in the football at The Queen's.
August 23, 2025 at 4:52 PM
...red cabbage from the Curly Cornet, bottles of K at Sylvester's, currant backstone oven bottoms from the Muffin Stall, chip barms from Glossop Fish Bar, meat and potato pies from Mettrick's, and triangular white bread sandwiches at halftime in the football at The Queen's.
...and a bang-on negroni, which I think is my first ever negroni in my home town. Fifty two years of Glossopian eating and drinking, which has involved custard tarts and traffic light cakes from Bruckshaw's Bakery, pizza and pasta from Firenze, cans of Breaker at The Norfolk, 'tata hash with...
August 23, 2025 at 4:52 PM
...and a bang-on negroni, which I think is my first ever negroni in my home town. Fifty two years of Glossopian eating and drinking, which has involved custard tarts and traffic light cakes from Bruckshaw's Bakery, pizza and pasta from Firenze, cans of Breaker at The Norfolk, 'tata hash with...
Other dishes were equally good if a little less photogenic, though the mutton fat bread (basically a fried slice à la sheep) with za'atar was a stand out as a £4 snack.
A shout out too to a wonderful Hunter Glenn Sonoma Chardonnay, moon-yellow in the glass and almost butterscotchy on the palate...
A shout out too to a wonderful Hunter Glenn Sonoma Chardonnay, moon-yellow in the glass and almost butterscotchy on the palate...
August 23, 2025 at 4:52 PM
Other dishes were equally good if a little less photogenic, though the mutton fat bread (basically a fried slice à la sheep) with za'atar was a stand out as a £4 snack.
A shout out too to a wonderful Hunter Glenn Sonoma Chardonnay, moon-yellow in the glass and almost butterscotchy on the palate...
A shout out too to a wonderful Hunter Glenn Sonoma Chardonnay, moon-yellow in the glass and almost butterscotchy on the palate...
My extended birthday weekend starts here, at Almanac in Glossop.
A magnificent rump steak, rested to the point that you'd suspect it had been on a 'thermal journey' at a high class hotel spa, led the way, and who knew that sweetcorn and girolles would work beautifully as accompaniments.
A magnificent rump steak, rested to the point that you'd suspect it had been on a 'thermal journey' at a high class hotel spa, led the way, and who knew that sweetcorn and girolles would work beautifully as accompaniments.
August 23, 2025 at 4:52 PM
My extended birthday weekend starts here, at Almanac in Glossop.
A magnificent rump steak, rested to the point that you'd suspect it had been on a 'thermal journey' at a high class hotel spa, led the way, and who knew that sweetcorn and girolles would work beautifully as accompaniments.
A magnificent rump steak, rested to the point that you'd suspect it had been on a 'thermal journey' at a high class hotel spa, led the way, and who knew that sweetcorn and girolles would work beautifully as accompaniments.
Pip gets a lovely review from @jayrayner1.bsky.social in today's @financialtimes.com They've had an amazing run of write-ups.
August 23, 2025 at 10:25 AM
Pip gets a lovely review from @jayrayner1.bsky.social in today's @financialtimes.com They've had an amazing run of write-ups.