Yeah, thats the one. Thanks!. Now how to see how to get one.

First version works, Hardware jpeg decoding, scaling and rotating.

Now to figure out how to get immich to give me normal jpeg, not extended sequential ones (that hw/sw decoder does not support.)

I've tried a MS Surface pro 2, with immich and immich kiosk.

This worked better, nice view, auto sleep/wakeup.
However its power connector is iffy, it does not make contact very well and is easily knocked loose.

Now trying to make my own using an esp32p4, not for my dad, but to scratch the itch.

* It keeps loosing its time, so the wakeup/sleep function does not work well. so it gets unplugged, not helping the situation.
* It keeps popping up asking for wifi... there is no wifi.
* It sometimes does not fully parse the foto, only showing 5-10%.

It works perfectly fine for UIs, and some of them at work have uptimes of months, but anytime I've been pushing it beyond this. It seems it multithreaded part fails.

I now decode them in one core, send the framebuffer in a fifo to the draw core, that draws it and returns the framebuffer back.

It look like an onboard controller programs the DSI-RGB bridge in to work with the pi. I saw some people using logic analyzer to figure it out looks like an ICN6211, but when I use DSI-command mode to put it in testing pattern, it does not react.
Wonder what they did to it.

The screen survived, works fine on a pi (including touchscreen).
But it is a clone, so I cannot get it to work on the esp32p4. No documentation, and does not work with the settings for official one. Found some others also failed. Spend a few hours,failing. All chip ids are grinded off, so no hope.

All this and it does not even need AI

Having fun and learning is the most important! (in my opinion).

Curious why the LED doesn't work? little to go wrong here.
I do always find it a pain to find the marking that indicate what is anode/cathode. (some have green on top, some on the bottom.)
I use a multi-meter on diode mode to test it out before placing. (should be save to do this in circuit too)

What helps me soldering these type of SoMs is by putting some extra flux on the pins, and then drag past them with a large (clean) point.

This normally clears the bridges and give each pin a nice clean solder joint.

They where sold as 90 cm 20Amp (sorry, made typo in first post) cable.

I am still happy with them, as they are cheap and useful.

The cable has a 3.4mm thick (including insulation) wire.
Measuring the cable, it calculates to being 24 AWG..

So max 3.5A in open air.. Not suited for 20A.. what a surprise.

The down side from using it now for a bit, it looks like that in UPS mode it runs the control logic off the batteries. It does not have a small power supply internally?

So every 50 minutes it tops up the battery again.. This will definitely accelerate the aging of the cells.

it seems the sk6812 chip ( a clone of the ws2812b) uses the exact same timing diagrams (clear copy/pasta) in datasheet.
But the timings are slightly off.. 0.3+0.9 (that sum up to 1.25 according to datasheet) vs. 0.45+0.8 of the other one.
Now set it to 0.35/0.9 and that works ok for both.