derek guy
@dieworkwear.bsky.social
Menswear writer. Editor at Put This On. Words at The New York Times, The Washington Post, The Financial Times, Esquire, and Mr. Porter.
If you have a style question, search:
https://dieworkwear.com/ | https://putthison.com/start-here/
If you have a style question, search:
https://dieworkwear.com/ | https://putthison.com/start-here/
how about a 75 year mortgage, but you receive it upon conception
November 9, 2025 at 12:27 AM
how about a 75 year mortgage, but you receive it upon conception
Me on the phone: "Hello Kash Pat—"
*clears throat*
Me, but this time in Yosemite Sam's voice so no one suspects I'm an immigrant: "Well, consarn it, HELLO there, Kash Patel! I got me a rip-roarin’, rootin’-tootin’ case that’s hotter than a billy goat in a pepper patch!”
*clears throat*
Me, but this time in Yosemite Sam's voice so no one suspects I'm an immigrant: "Well, consarn it, HELLO there, Kash Patel! I got me a rip-roarin’, rootin’-tootin’ case that’s hotter than a billy goat in a pepper patch!”
November 8, 2025 at 3:33 AM
Me on the phone: "Hello Kash Pat—"
*clears throat*
Me, but this time in Yosemite Sam's voice so no one suspects I'm an immigrant: "Well, consarn it, HELLO there, Kash Patel! I got me a rip-roarin’, rootin’-tootin’ case that’s hotter than a billy goat in a pepper patch!”
*clears throat*
Me, but this time in Yosemite Sam's voice so no one suspects I'm an immigrant: "Well, consarn it, HELLO there, Kash Patel! I got me a rip-roarin’, rootin’-tootin’ case that’s hotter than a billy goat in a pepper patch!”
I wouldn't call it Temu-level fake. The leather looks to be authentic Himalayan crocodile (that's just the name Hermes gives the color). The workmanship is just sloppy
November 8, 2025 at 2:24 AM
I wouldn't call it Temu-level fake. The leather looks to be authentic Himalayan crocodile (that's just the name Hermes gives the color). The workmanship is just sloppy
Wax. It makes the thread more water resistant.
November 8, 2025 at 2:19 AM
Wax. It makes the thread more water resistant.
Sloppy edge dressing almost guarantees it's fake.
November 8, 2025 at 2:18 AM
Sloppy edge dressing almost guarantees it's fake.
Here's a video Hermes released a while ago showing the process of saddle stitching.
November 8, 2025 at 2:10 AM
Here's a video Hermes released a while ago showing the process of saddle stitching.
Of course, if you're on budget, don't neglect vintage.
My goal is not to tell you what to buy, but rather to help you develop an eye for fit, silhouette, and quality so you can see past brand names, empty copy writing, and celebrity marketing. This way, you can see what is the best choice for you.
My goal is not to tell you what to buy, but rather to help you develop an eye for fit, silhouette, and quality so you can see past brand names, empty copy writing, and celebrity marketing. This way, you can see what is the best choice for you.
November 7, 2025 at 9:09 PM
Of course, if you're on budget, don't neglect vintage.
My goal is not to tell you what to buy, but rather to help you develop an eye for fit, silhouette, and quality so you can see past brand names, empty copy writing, and celebrity marketing. This way, you can see what is the best choice for you.
My goal is not to tell you what to buy, but rather to help you develop an eye for fit, silhouette, and quality so you can see past brand names, empty copy writing, and celebrity marketing. This way, you can see what is the best choice for you.
If you value hand craftsmanship, then I think Whitcomb & Shaftsbury offers more value than luxury designer, as it's a true artisanal product. You are partly buying the experience of having something made for you to the highest level of traditional craftsmanship.
November 7, 2025 at 9:09 PM
If you value hand craftsmanship, then I think Whitcomb & Shaftsbury offers more value than luxury designer, as it's a true artisanal product. You are partly buying the experience of having something made for you to the highest level of traditional craftsmanship.
Epaulet's overcoats ($2,205 with code welcome10) are great if you want something made in the US and can be customized through fabrics. The material is a heavier 18oz pure wool, which on an overcoat, will keep you warm between 40F - 60F degree weather (any colder and you need heavier material).
November 7, 2025 at 9:09 PM
Epaulet's overcoats ($2,205 with code welcome10) are great if you want something made in the US and can be customized through fabrics. The material is a heavier 18oz pure wool, which on an overcoat, will keep you warm between 40F - 60F degree weather (any colder and you need heavier material).
For most people, the best value is somewhere between fast fashion and designer luxury. The H&M overcoat is $269, but it's a wool-polyamide blend and doesn't have the best shape. California Arts's overcoats are $750, but they're 100% wool and hang better.
IG leeyjohn_
IG leeyjohn_
November 7, 2025 at 9:09 PM
For most people, the best value is somewhere between fast fashion and designer luxury. The H&M overcoat is $269, but it's a wool-polyamide blend and doesn't have the best shape. California Arts's overcoats are $750, but they're 100% wool and hang better.
IG leeyjohn_
IG leeyjohn_
Similarly, if you have an unusual build, your choice will be made for you: ready-to-wear won't fit, so you have to use a custom tailor like Whitcomb & Shaftsbury.
However, most of us are somewhere in the middle of these worlds.
However, most of us are somewhere in the middle of these worlds.
November 7, 2025 at 9:09 PM
Similarly, if you have an unusual build, your choice will be made for you: ready-to-wear won't fit, so you have to use a custom tailor like Whitcomb & Shaftsbury.
However, most of us are somewhere in the middle of these worlds.
However, most of us are somewhere in the middle of these worlds.
So who provides the best value?
This is very hard to say, as much depends on your budget. Someone earning $100/ month will find the $269 H&M overcoat to be an extravagant purchase. To a billionaire, the $11,200 Cucinelli overcoat is like buying a candy bar.
This is very hard to say, as much depends on your budget. Someone earning $100/ month will find the $269 H&M overcoat to be an extravagant purchase. To a billionaire, the $11,200 Cucinelli overcoat is like buying a candy bar.
November 7, 2025 at 9:09 PM
So who provides the best value?
This is very hard to say, as much depends on your budget. Someone earning $100/ month will find the $269 H&M overcoat to be an extravagant purchase. To a billionaire, the $11,200 Cucinelli overcoat is like buying a candy bar.
This is very hard to say, as much depends on your budget. Someone earning $100/ month will find the $269 H&M overcoat to be an extravagant purchase. To a billionaire, the $11,200 Cucinelli overcoat is like buying a candy bar.
But when you're shopping designer luxury, you may be surprised to find how much of the stuff is still factory produced. Like the Epaulet overcoat, the buttonholes, pad stitching, and pick stitching are still done by machine. It's not an true benchmade garment like Whitcomb & Shaftsbury.
November 7, 2025 at 9:09 PM
But when you're shopping designer luxury, you may be surprised to find how much of the stuff is still factory produced. Like the Epaulet overcoat, the buttonholes, pad stitching, and pick stitching are still done by machine. It's not an true benchmade garment like Whitcomb & Shaftsbury.
Second, they treat their workers very well. This doesn't mean that Rochester Tailored Clothing or Whitcomb & Shaftsbury don't (although, who knows what happens at H&M factories). But Cucinelli literally has a walkable hamlet. They ensure a proper work-life balance and provide 90 min lunch breaks.
November 7, 2025 at 9:09 PM
Second, they treat their workers very well. This doesn't mean that Rochester Tailored Clothing or Whitcomb & Shaftsbury don't (although, who knows what happens at H&M factories). But Cucinelli literally has a walkable hamlet. They ensure a proper work-life balance and provide 90 min lunch breaks.
There are two things you can trust about Cucinelli. First, their cashmere is of the highest-quality, which means long-staple fibers expertly spun and then densely knitted or woven into fabric. Cashmere fabrics from cheaper brands are likely to pill or stretch out of shape.
November 7, 2025 at 9:09 PM
There are two things you can trust about Cucinelli. First, their cashmere is of the highest-quality, which means long-staple fibers expertly spun and then densely knitted or woven into fabric. Cashmere fabrics from cheaper brands are likely to pill or stretch out of shape.
Let's move up to the final price tier: designer luxury. This Cucinelli overcoat retails for $11,200. The coat was fully cut-and-sewn in Italy using a 60/20 cashmere-silk blend. It's half-lined, which means the interior seams have to be more neatly finished.
November 7, 2025 at 9:09 PM
Let's move up to the final price tier: designer luxury. This Cucinelli overcoat retails for $11,200. The coat was fully cut-and-sewn in Italy using a 60/20 cashmere-silk blend. It's half-lined, which means the interior seams have to be more neatly finished.
Whitcomb & Shaftsbury is unique in that they offer two programs: fully made in London or your pattern drafted and cut in London, while the coatmaking is done by master tailors in India. The second keeps costs down, making them one of the best values in London-based bespoke.
November 7, 2025 at 9:09 PM
Whitcomb & Shaftsbury is unique in that they offer two programs: fully made in London or your pattern drafted and cut in London, while the coatmaking is done by master tailors in India. The second keeps costs down, making them one of the best values in London-based bespoke.
The buttoned, folded vent originated with cavalry officers, whose coats had to drape neatly across a saddle but could be buttoned shut to block the wind when wearer dismounted. It’s a sporty and labor-intensive detail that's more complex to construct than a standard center vent.
November 7, 2025 at 9:09 PM
The buttoned, folded vent originated with cavalry officers, whose coats had to drape neatly across a saddle but could be buttoned shut to block the wind when wearer dismounted. It’s a sporty and labor-intensive detail that's more complex to construct than a standard center vent.
This W&S overcoat also just has a ton of great details: lapped seams, adjustable Martingale belt, tons of shaping through ironwork, turnback cuffs, box pleat for movement, arrowhead tacks, and a folded vent that can be fastened with buttons. All this takes time and skilled labor.
November 7, 2025 at 9:09 PM
This W&S overcoat also just has a ton of great details: lapped seams, adjustable Martingale belt, tons of shaping through ironwork, turnback cuffs, box pleat for movement, arrowhead tacks, and a folded vent that can be fastened with buttons. All this takes time and skilled labor.
The pick stitching was also done by hand. Pick stitching is a way to finish the edge of a coat to stop it from puffing up or rolling to the wrong side. This can be done by hand or machine. Since the H&M overcoat lacks pick stitching, I would be concerned about the edge curling.
November 7, 2025 at 9:09 PM
The pick stitching was also done by hand. Pick stitching is a way to finish the edge of a coat to stop it from puffing up or rolling to the wrong side. This can be done by hand or machine. Since the H&M overcoat lacks pick stitching, I would be concerned about the edge curling.