Perfect fit for the lightpost, using a cut of clean filament to tunnel the sonoff light to the top surface show before. Got the idea for doing this after servicing a ps1 lol
September 11, 2025 at 3:21 AM
Perfect fit for the lightpost, using a cut of clean filament to tunnel the sonoff light to the top surface show before. Got the idea for doing this after servicing a ps1 lol
Moved test printing over to use petg and found that the fuse holder wasn't strong enough to flex without snapping, even when printed with 0% cooling. Not a shock given the walls are only 1.2mm, three walls with a 0.4mm nozzle
September 11, 2025 at 12:20 AM
Moved test printing over to use petg and found that the fuse holder wasn't strong enough to flex without snapping, even when printed with 0% cooling. Not a shock given the walls are only 1.2mm, three walls with a 0.4mm nozzle
It was also really important to me to get an inline fuse in there, because why wouldn't you with how easy it is to do. Fits this standard style of fuse holder
September 1, 2025 at 9:34 AM
It was also really important to me to get an inline fuse in there, because why wouldn't you with how easy it is to do. Fits this standard style of fuse holder
The top shell has a supporting cylinder for a button extension, and a tunnel for some clear filament to act as a lightpost for the LED on the Sonoff. The top shell has a very thin layer where the lightpost goes to, making it invisible when not illuminated. Really happy with how it turned out
September 1, 2025 at 9:24 AM
The top shell has a supporting cylinder for a button extension, and a tunnel for some clear filament to act as a lightpost for the LED on the Sonoff. The top shell has a very thin layer where the lightpost goes to, making it invisible when not illuminated. Really happy with how it turned out
I ended up going with this orientation for the sonoff unit, laying flat, as it let me easily route the wiring and use a stand-off design to rest the toggle switch on top of
September 1, 2025 at 9:18 AM
I ended up going with this orientation for the sonoff unit, laying flat, as it let me easily route the wiring and use a stand-off design to rest the toggle switch on top of
Long time no update, the lamp foot switch project is almost done. I put it off while I was working on some upgrades for my 3D printer, but only a few minor tweaks and I can print the final shell
September 1, 2025 at 9:11 AM
Long time no update, the lamp foot switch project is almost done. I put it off while I was working on some upgrades for my 3D printer, but only a few minor tweaks and I can print the final shell
Overall I think for space efficiency I'll go vertical. This also lets me make the pairing switch accessible with a printed post or similar button on the shell. To model this into the final switch I roughly recreated the switch in fusion so I can project the lines
December 29, 2024 at 1:13 AM
Overall I think for space efficiency I'll go vertical. This also lets me make the pairing switch accessible with a printed post or similar button on the shell. To model this into the final switch I roughly recreated the switch in fusion so I can project the lines
For the next part of the lamp project, I need to throw something together to hold the zigbee controller. I'm going to use a Sonoff zbminil2, so I threw together a couple of test prints for mounting it vertically or horizontally
December 29, 2024 at 1:10 AM
For the next part of the lamp project, I need to throw something together to hold the zigbee controller. I'm going to use a Sonoff zbminil2, so I threw together a couple of test prints for mounting it vertically or horizontally
The test print was almost perfect, roughly half a mm off position. The posts hold the copper plates in, and the part that contacts with the end of the switch rocker clamps the rocker 'bar' perfectly. Just the switch gap needs to move over a little, .4mm should be enough I think
December 29, 2024 at 12:26 AM
The test print was almost perfect, roughly half a mm off position. The posts hold the copper plates in, and the part that contacts with the end of the switch rocker clamps the rocker 'bar' perfectly. Just the switch gap needs to move over a little, .4mm should be enough I think
To get the angle for the circle I used my callipers to find the largest height and width of the circle, marked them, and then used the rocker switch centre line as the baseline for finding the right angle for the switch cutout, 16, since 90 - 74, math, etc, you get it
December 29, 2024 at 12:24 AM
To get the angle for the circle I used my callipers to find the largest height and width of the circle, marked them, and then used the rocker switch centre line as the baseline for finding the right angle for the switch cutout, 16, since 90 - 74, math, etc, you get it
From here (and in a previous post) I'll be designing the parts needed for a new cover, retaining the existing rocker switch (i'll cut it out, it's already designed and solid, so why not, right?)
December 29, 2024 at 12:18 AM
From here (and in a previous post) I'll be designing the parts needed for a new cover, retaining the existing rocker switch (i'll cut it out, it's already designed and solid, so why not, right?)
The mechanism itself is interesting, it's just two copper plates that separate the live wire, and a toggle pin/plate that connects on the rocker switch being switched. Simple but it works. The unpopulated part of the rocker i'll likely cut off to gain space in the new shell
December 29, 2024 at 12:09 AM
The mechanism itself is interesting, it's just two copper plates that separate the live wire, and a toggle pin/plate that connects on the rocker switch being switched. Simple but it works. The unpopulated part of the rocker i'll likely cut off to gain space in the new shell
Getting it apart sucked, I used an ifixit pry too, a paint can opener pry tool, two screwdrivers, and a putty knife. Basically, pop the first pressure post, slide putty knife under rocker switch, stab/cut the glued posts, then pop the rest using the putty knife as a plate to leverage off of
December 29, 2024 at 12:05 AM
Getting it apart sucked, I used an ifixit pry too, a paint can opener pry tool, two screwdrivers, and a putty knife. Basically, pop the first pressure post, slide putty knife under rocker switch, stab/cut the glued posts, then pop the rest using the putty knife as a plate to leverage off of
After a few months of sitting on it, I finally got motivated enough to try pulling it apart again. It has 3 pressure clamped posts (blue), and two glued or otherwise joined posts (red) that must be broken / cut
December 29, 2024 at 12:03 AM
After a few months of sitting on it, I finally got motivated enough to try pulling it apart again. It has 3 pressure clamped posts (blue), and two glued or otherwise joined posts (red) that must be broken / cut
Hacking an ikea lamp foot switch: A small nightmare of a thing to get apart. This switch has nearly no information around about dismantling or pulling it apart, it has no screws, and is not serviceable
December 29, 2024 at 12:01 AM
Hacking an ikea lamp foot switch: A small nightmare of a thing to get apart. This switch has nearly no information around about dismantling or pulling it apart, it has no screws, and is not serviceable
After adding the right symmetry constraints, test print time. This is for clamping down on the rocker mechanism, the two posts exists on the current lid to hold the switching contacts in place
December 28, 2024 at 11:39 PM
After adding the right symmetry constraints, test print time. This is for clamping down on the rocker mechanism, the two posts exists on the current lid to hold the switching contacts in place