atkinsonmw.bsky.social
@atkinsonmw.bsky.social
Good sleuthing - this is a dummy bottle.
May 11, 2025 at 2:09 PM
Not a showy wine. Lynch, GPL did that job. But even these seemed retiring compared to Leoville Barton.
May 11, 2025 at 10:44 AM
My notes from blind ‘20 MW tasting this spring. Maybe try the Pedesclaux if you’re craving extra astringency.
May 11, 2025 at 10:01 AM
They’re all Airbnb guests so they experience it as novelty, to bring it back to Dwight.
May 10, 2025 at 5:37 AM
Sherry and Madeira production is elaborate and generative, but the end product can be inert. We may not step into the same river twice but the flow downstream is lazy.
May 9, 2025 at 5:33 AM
Elevage is like the last act of a play that brings the drama of fermentation to its conclusion. Dwight’s depiction is too chaotic. Predication tends to be repetitive vis a vis grape varieties/regions/cru, but isn’t that because outcomes are broadly predictable?
May 9, 2025 at 5:11 AM
We need Joe Strummer’s bullshit detector.
May 7, 2025 at 6:01 AM
Natural v conventional is a rhetorical strategy, whereas the shift to domaine bottling was a properly generative event. Individual estates found a way of escaping the demands of large scale production. Low SO2 is a good example of producers working things out for themselves.
May 6, 2025 at 6:14 AM
Just refuse the categories natural/conventional, and enjoy individual wines.
May 5, 2025 at 5:38 PM
And there was me thinking y’all too cool for school.
May 5, 2025 at 7:25 AM
What I think is interesting, again taking Chardonnay as the example, is that the points of escape - delayed malo/the slow pace of wild ferments - that come into play when our control is rolled back, tend to consistently produce better wines.
May 2, 2025 at 5:42 AM
Production is certainly impelled from within by yeast and bacteria, but the surprise for me is the repetition in outcomes. Chardonnay made in barrel is an almost frictionless process yet you usually end up in the same precinct even with wild aldehydic detours. Soil is the hidden, regulating hand.
May 2, 2025 at 5:24 AM
Alchemy
May 1, 2025 at 6:03 PM
The lack within accumulation, but then you discover money and burgundy both smell like shit.
May 1, 2025 at 5:38 PM
I’d argue it’s a often a flight from accumulation, but old habits and all that…
May 1, 2025 at 9:24 AM
Absolutely.
May 1, 2025 at 6:32 AM
Burgundy Bingo - ‘pigeage’, ‘whole-cluster’ ‘delayed malo’. So much desire, overshoot, relative to consumption.
May 1, 2025 at 6:27 AM
Barthes wrote an essay ‘One always fails to write about what one loves’ which is worth reading. Certainly easier going than W’s Tractatus.
May 1, 2025 at 6:04 AM
Isn’t wine as much about our desire as it is about our consumption. Writing can be part of this excess: an unopened original wooden case, the stem of a Zalto; the cold weight of Lafite 2000 in the cellar. Writing that irritates and seems irrelevant to some can feel like poetry to others.
May 1, 2025 at 5:53 AM
Yes. Part of Coterie’s empire building project.
April 27, 2025 at 6:47 AM
They have inventory via L&W. How much of the plan is storage?
April 27, 2025 at 6:23 AM