Mostly, local Nepalese media are promoting a new route bypassing the infamous Khumbu Icefall, claiming it to be shorter, faster, and safer, retracing the original path used by the British 1953 expedition that accomplished the first Everest summit. These articles seem to confuse a new route with an old trekking route reopened, and may not have thoroughly fact-checked some of the performance claims.  While the overall press is limited and has not gone mainstream, the facts are not as simple as "new summit route."  I believe commercial operators will rarely use the route on Nuptse's flanks to bypass the Icefall, as it is too difficult for today's average Everest climber. Still, it may be used by a few who have the skills and desire to avoid the Icefall. Let's take a look at the proposed new route, its history, then fact-check some of the claims, including that the Icefall is the most dangerous section when climbing Everest, and finally, a look at what today's climbers can do if they have Icefall concerns. #everest2026

The 2025 Himalayan Autumn climbing has been a deadly one with multiple deaths across several mountains. Similarly, several events occurred in the Alps, taking five lives. Authorities had warned strongly about heavy snow in the Himalaya and advised climbers and trekkers to pause all activity for a few days.

Authorities and meteorologists are issuing dire warnings for climbers and trekkers in Nepal's Himalayas. Seizing the opportunity to pre-market the documentary of Jim Morrison's legendary ski descent down Everest's North Face, National Geographic released a short teaser revealing the scale and courage it took to complete this feat. A Russian team opens a new route on Manaslu. The recent heavy snowfall across both sides of Everest created a host of false and poorly written and researched articles about "stranded climbers on Everest." The only climbers on Everest were the NatGeo ski team and they were never stranded. Many teams of seasonal trekkers were stranded in Tibet's Kama (or Karma) Valley, east of Mount Everest, but all were rescued by local villagers and SARs teams. Bottom line is there was drama but nothing to get seriously worked up over. As the Himalayan season winds down climbing action picks up on Puncak Jaya or Carstensz Pyramid on the island of New Guinea, Kilimanjaro, Antartica's Vinson Massif and around the New Years, Argentina's Aconcagua.

While teams summited Cho Oyu, the world's sixth-highest peak, a fifty-year-old American skied down the North Face of Mt. Everest. An Everest 1953 legend has passed away. The recent heavy snowfall acro...

New Zealander Peter Hillary needs no introduction, as his last name recalls the historic achievement of his father, Sir Edmund Hillary, who, along with Tenzing Norgay, first summited Mt. Everest on May 29, 1953.  An adventurer in his own right, Peter has undertaken over 40 expeditions and adventures that most of us only dream of. He's been to the North and South Poles, summited Everest twice, jet-boated the entire length of the Ganges River, and more. He's also an accomplished author, speaker and adventure guide company operator. I first met Peter at Everest Base Camp in 2003 and again last month here in Colorado, where I thoroughly enjoyed one of his legendary talks. In this podcast, we discuss Peter's relationship with his father, his upbringing, adventures, and the future of mountaineering. We also discuss the Himalayan Trust, a foundation started by his father in 1961 that continues today, building schools, infrastructure, roads, and more throughout Nepal, a country close to Peter's heart.

With excellent weather and hordes of climbers with massive support, records are being broken across the Himalayas. First, there was a no O's ski descent from Everest's summit, then multiple speed and the youngest summits on Manaslu. Climbing continues across the 8000ers. So far, 457 climbers from 47 expedition teams—including 347 men and 110 women—have received permits. On Manaslu, at least 170 members were supported by 187 Sherpas, totalling 357 summits, with more to come.

Australians Bianca Alder, 17, and her dad, Paul Alder, 50, are back in Melbourne, Australia, after their recent Everest attempt. They were thwarted by strong winds and illness, but made a valuable attempt. Bianca's social posts have gone viral as she struggled to breathe upon returning to Camp 4 at the South Col after reaching 8163 meters on the 8848-meter peak. She climbed with Rinji Sherpa of the Makalu region. This podcast discusses Paul's Everest attempt and summit, Bianca's Ama Dablam attempt and summit and of course, Everest with the risks, decision-making, and emotions. I think you'll enjoy meeting this young lady, who, by the way, has become friends with Ryan Mitchell. The two give me a lot of hope for the sport I love, seeing two very mature young people embracing mountaineering. #everest2025

With excellent weather and hordes of climbers with massive support, records are being broken across the Himalayas. First, there was a no O's ski descent from Everest's summit, then multiple speed and the youngest summits on Manaslu. Climbing continues across the 8000ers. So far, 457 climbers from 47 expedition teams—including 347 men and 110 women—have received permits. On Manaslu, at least 170 members were supported by 187 Sherpas, totalling 357 summits, with more to come.

The Autumn Himalayan season is well underway with minimal impact from the violence and protest that occurred in mid-September in Kathmandu.

Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, is back from his recent K2 attempt. They were thwarted by a deadly rockfall that killed two other people on other teams. They climbed to Camp 1 to see the conditions firsthand and abandoned their expedition. However, they climbed a previously unclimbed peak near K2 for acclimatization, so there was some solid mountaineering this year for the Madison Mountaineering team led by Terray Sylvester. They also collected 600 pounds of trash, primarily from the K2 Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp, which were exposed to unexpectedly dry and warm conditions. In this podcast, we discuss the expedition, its risks, decision-making and emotions. Ryan is currently dropping a new YouTube episode almost daily on his channel, which provides his followers with a unique inside look at what K2 offered in 2025.  #k2025

On September 1, 2025, several new rules were enacted for mountaineering in Nepal. The most significant change was increased permit fees for Nepal's most popular peaks. The rest of the rules seem like window dressing or distractions designed to mitigate any negative press around the price increase. The Nepal Ministry of Tourism has effectively used this strategy for years. One proposed rule being marketed by Nepal guides and promoted throughout the press, Nepal and worldwide, is that all Everest permit applicants must have climbed a 7000-meter peak in Nepal. This rule has NOT yet been approved. You can follow its current status at this link, which is listed as "Discussion in Committee" as of September 3, 2025.

Aerobic training, not fasted training, in the primary driver of improving fat use as fuel during endurance training. We also discuss risks of fasted training and LCHF diets, stressing balanced fueling...

The summer 2025 Karakorum for the 8000-meter peaks is over, and what a season it was. There were summits, deaths, disappointments and survivals. Was it a “successful” season? I’ll leave that judgment to others—but honestly, it often felt like safety took a back seat to ambition. Summits: K2- 42 with two deaths Broad Peak: 0 Gashbrum II: 0 Gasherbrum I: 17 Nanga Parbart: 25 with one death #K2025

A tragic incident occurred involving one of Imagine Nepal's clients. She was inadvertently struck by a rock between Camp 1 and Advanced Base Camp and sadly lost her life. She had successfully summited with Mingma G's Imagine Nepal team on August 11. #K2025

UPDATE: August 12, 2025: Nine more summits were reported late, bringing the total to at least 41. It appears, but not 100% confirmed, that all have descended safely. August 11, 2025 - 32 K2 summits we...

August 11, 2025 - There were 27 reported K2 summits by Imagine Nepal Team and Prakash Sherpa’s Climber Alpinist Expeditions (CAE). Safe descents have not been confirmed. #K2025

With teams still hoping to summit, popular American climber Ryan Mitchell, Phurba Shera and Terray Sylvester, Madison Mountaineering lead guide, and several other Sherpas ended their expedition after climbing to Camp 1. Terray felt the rockfall was too dangerous to continue despite several teams already higher on the mountain, hoping to summit on August 11. With only a few teams left on the mountain, each with a few climbers, including a few independent ones foregoing supplemntal oxygen and HAP/Sherpa support like Czech climbers Jan Polacek, Lenka Polackova, and Pakistani Sohail Sakhi. French climber Charles Page, guide by Vinajak Malla was last reported at 7516 m/25,658 feet, the alttiude of traditional Camp 4 as of August 10 per his Inreach. Regardless of classification, they must work together to set the ropes, break the trail, and reach the summit. Then, they must descend, which might be one of the riskiest in recent history. Remaining teams include Seven Summits Treks, Imagine Nepal, and Elete Expeditions. As of yesterday, the fixed ropes are 200 meters above Camp 3, around 7400 meters or 24,300 feet. With Page's report, they are obvioulsy higher now as they are on their sumit push. Teams expect to summit on Monday, August 11. #K2025

The unrelenting winds stalled most teams and sent more members home as time, supplies and motivation ran out. Most teams are not updating their social media, so information is difficult to come by. We now understand that the fixed ropes are 200 meters above Camp 3, which would be around 7400 meters or 24,300 feet. Teams are expecting to summit on Monday, August 11. The upper mountain is reported to be in good condition, with the largest area of concern between Camp 1 and Advanced Base Camp, which has persistent rockfall. There are just a handful of teams left on the mountain, all with few climbers. They include Seven Summits Treks, Imagine Nepal, Elete Expeditions and Madison Mountain Guides. #K2025

After almost five weeks, a weather window long enough for a summit attempt on K2 has emerged. Most teams and many individuals have left, but an estimated (very rough guess) that 20-30 total people, split equally between commercial and independent climbers, remain for the summit push starting today, August 5, 2025. #K2025

Pakistan's Northern Territories are seeing climbers leave while trekkers enjoy stunning, rugged mountain vistas. It looks like the action is over on the two Gasherbrums and Broad Peak, with only GII seeing summits; however, climbers remain at K2 Base Camp, hoping for one last break and then a chance to summit. #K2025

The winds continue across the Northern Territories, now hitting the Gasherbrums. One team stopped their summit attempt on GII, citing poor conditions above C3, while another gave up on Broad Peak. For those remaining on K2 and BP, they're constantly glancing at their watches, calendars, and the summit. Tick, tock-time is running out. They can only hope for a three-day window of low winds. Then, only the strongest will be able to climb that fast, break through the deep snow and fix the lines—a tall order for any team or individual. Popular US climber Ryan Mitchell is at K2 Base Camp and texted me, "Forecasts not looking good for winds." #K2025

Signs of trouble on K2 and Broad Peak. First is the weather. There have been more high winds and heavy snowfall, preventing the establishment of Camp 3 on K2 and keeping the Broad Peak climbers below Camp 3. And the other concern is the lack of cooperation among the teams, as noted by Polish climber, Lukas Supergan: "... This could be achieved by a large, combined team from agencies and independent climbers working together. However, such cooperation is completely lacking. Leaders keep their plans secret." #K2025

Summits! We have summits in the Karakoram on Sunday, July 20, 2025. Also, climbers are acclimatizing at Camp 3 on BP, and most teams seem focused on an upcoming summit window around the end of July. Conditions are finally improving in the Karakoram after days of high temperatures, winds, and even snow and rain. One issue is that crows are eating food left at high camps! Tragically, one climber died last week on K2 from rockfall. Also, improvements are made for locals and visitors trekking the Baltoro Glacier. #K2025