Got it all wired up! Originally I used whatever wire I had lying around, but it was way too thick and I couldn't squeeze in the switches after soldering them.

So, after learning that the higher the number, the smaller the wire, I bought some 30 gauge wire instead, and it fits perfectly now.

For example, while it didn't fail the print, the overhang around the dpad either did not slice well or did not print well. Either way I realized I don't need an overhang there after all, so I'll probably just remove it.

I love this thing so much. What a great object. Still some minor tweaks to be made though.

The video goes into detail about how I designed the 3D printed parts and how the gamecube controller protocol works

I found this resource for designing parts to be 3D printed to be invaluable. blog.rahix.de/design-for-3...

You will still need some resource for actually operating a CAD software, but I just learnt the basic sketch -> extrude process and looked things up when I hit a wall. So I cant help you there.

I wanted to improve my video quality a bit. So I researched cameras and it turns out, to start off, you're better off getting a light instead and just using the camera already in your phone. I got one of those soft led panels for photography and tested it out, this is much better!

Case in point, I realised after publishing that my expression in the thumbnail was not working, so I replaced it with much a better one, but now the old one is cached everywhere. Now I know for next time. 🥲

rukaidata is now updated with P+ 3.1.0

Heres a before (left) and after (right) for mewtwo's hurtboxes.
rukaidata.com/P+/Mewtwo/su...

I ported the stock gram firmware to rust. Which was partially to satisfy my own silly purism but it is also easier to build and deploy config changes now.

And here's the onshape exploded diagram just because it looks so cool.