I think this is why she doesn't like answering questions about what her shows mean. To her each collection is a collaborative effort of exploration that only reveals itself at the end, not an idea dictated top-down.

There was only one rehearsal an hour and a half before the show.

On top of that the theme of "White Shock" was only communicated to lighting, hair stylists 2 days before the show.

"Online, culture exists as a smooth continuum of the same. YouTube thumbnails blur together in a collage of bright faces, red arrows and inflated typography, all merely the semiotics of desperation."

Hey, at least someone's thumbnails look different! 😜

"Subculture was meaningful precisely because it opposed the mainstream — a semiotic rebellion against order. In the digital era, the mainstream is the rebellion and every aesthetic, however oppositional, is already monetized. Punk’s spikes are available at ASOS and DIY zines exist as Etsy décor."

Also on Wisdom Kaye buying an overpriced bag and having it falling apart, the CEO's response was "no way, our net promoter score proves otherwise."

Needless to say, someone is high on thin air.. erm.. Innovation, visibility and emotion.

CEO: "I want to discuss innovation. Visibility. Emotion. I don't want to discuss price ranges."

Imran: "Well I think the customer wants to talk about price ranges..."

😂

Feels like its either the niche mag or press release drainage pipe. I'm a fan of Vestoj, although I do feel like I'm not smart enough for some of the niche mags.

Aside, it's somewhat shocking that a fashion media stalwart like i-D would need a guest byline on a podcast substack (albeit an amazing podcast). If anything this is where the great fashion reset is happening.

“He took my person as an inspiration, the way I was cutting clothing, putting underwear over. I was the muse, and you take things that feed your creativity, the persona, the hair, the makeup. Some people said it’s Marina who’s walking there [in Margiela’s first show] and it was.”

We also learn that Limi, Yohji's daughter, has been showing her work on the YY runway and is most likely to succeed Yohji at the helm of the house.

Yohji is not one to be sterilized by PR reps. Plenty of bombshell truths dropped, like:

“People don’t want to spend on well-designed, cut and made clothes. The industry is doing things more quickly, so generally, when you visit fashion stores, everything looks the same.”